Want to know how to make your own DIY cabinet doors with no table saw, no router table or other special tools? I stumbled across this technique when trying to make custom doors for a built-in desk on a budget. The process is so simple even beginner woodworkers can do it. All it requires are some MDF, a circular saw, a saw guide, wood glue, and time and effort. Let me walk you through the steps to make DIY Shaker Cabinet Doors and my key takeaways.
| Skill Level | Project Cost | Time |
| Beginner | Around $100 to make four 20″ x 48″ doors | A few days |
Prelude
Not sure if you’ve had this experience. But whenever I searched for different ways to make shaker style doors, most tutorials I came across mentioned a table saw, groove, dado or a router table. I would love to have my own table saw someday, but with limited space at home (and fund), I’ve been trying to get by with a miter saw and a circular saw. I’m not ready to take the plunge and buy a new table saw just yet.
Thankfully, I came across two helpful videos on YouTube (one by Geoff’s Joinery and another by Peter Millard) and a step-by-step post by Erin Zubot Design. I modified some of the steps, and was able to make my own shaker style door that looked like the real deal.
Supply list
To make DIY Shaker Cabinet Doors in the unconventional way, you need:
- 1/4” 4×8 MDF (medium density fiberboard) to make rails and stiles
- 3/4” 4×8 MDF to make the back panel
- Circular Saw
- Rip-Cut Guide (or other saw guide)
- Orbital Sander
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
Note: you can substitute MDF with different materials, such as solid wood, or plywood. The cost may be slightly higher.
For installation, you need:
- Hinge jig
- Door hinges
- Hardware
Nothing fancy here. A shaker door is no different from basic slab doors, other than having trim around it. If you’re creative, you can even replace the backing with plywood, beadboard or shiplap, and the rails and stiles with decorative molding. The possibility is endless.
Kreg Rip-Cut Guide
An important tool for this DIY is the saw guide. If you haven’t used one, I recommend getting the Kreg Rip-Cut Guide (listed at $39 as I am writing this post). It’s a handy tool that can be used in many different projects in place of a track saw or a table saw. It’s well worth the money.
A rip-cut guide allows you to mount a circular saw on top and make accurate, repeated straight cuts.
It uses the edge of the MDF/plywood as guide, and you can push the circular saw forward to complete each cut.
This set up can make cuts from 1″ to 24″ wide and infinite length (since all you do is to push the saw all the way to the end of the sheet good, there is no limit to how long that could be).
Step 1. Making the cuts
Set up the rip-cut guide with the circular saw. Cut ¾” MDF to size. This will be used as the back panels of the cabinet doors.
Tip: a general rule of thumb is to subtract 1/8″ from the total width of the cabinet, then divide by 2 to get the width of each door for frameless overlay style. Most IKEA doors are this style.
Rip ¼” MDF into long strips of the same width. Mine were 2 inches wide.
Note: MDF makes A TON of fine dust when it’s being cut or sanded. Make sure to wear eye protection and a dust mask.
Use an orbital sander to remove saw marks on the edges of the MDF panels and strips. It gives a much more smooth and professional finish to the doors. See the difference in the before and after pictures above?
Step 2. Gluing up
After removing saw dust with tack cloth or a clean cloth, apply enough wood glue to the MDF strips to cover majority of the surface. Spread the glue around.
First put down the stiles (long side), lining up with the edge of the back panel. Rub the trim back and forth a few times to form a strong rub joint. Then place the rails (short side) in between the stile. Use the same rubbing motion to keep it in place.
Add clamps and heavy weight to keep the joints together while the glue dries.
Wipe off glue squeeze out with a damp cloth right away.
Tip: the most effective way to remove dry wood glue on the inside corners of the stiles/rails is to use a heat gun. Sanding can easily cause scratch or gauge on the MDF.
Step 3. Finishing
Patch the seams between the MDF strips with wood filler. Sand to a smooth finish.
For the rough edges, use an orbital sander to do a final pass to remove any imperfections.
It’s optional, but a router can give the doors a nice profile on the edges. The decorative edge takes the finish up a notch. I used a 1/8″ roundover router bit. You can also glue on wood veneer to hide the rough edges before painting. Or use a sander to smooth over the edges.
Prime the doors. I used BIN Zinsser shellac-based primer on my door. BUT I also tested Kilz all purpose primer, it worked just as well. I think it’s a myth that you can’t use water-based primer on MDF.
Step 4. Installing hinges
Follow manufacturer’s instructions on how many hinges to use. I used three concealed hinges on the 47″ tall doors, and two hinges on the 13″ ones.
Use the Kreg concealed hinge jig to drill the cup for the hinge and the screw holes. Prime, paint and seal all the doors before installation.
These soft-close concealed hingers have screws that allow you to adjust the position of the doors slightly, which was super helpful. Although I have to admit it was not easy to get everything perfectly aligned the first time. I made a few mistakes–e.g. installing the doors too close to the cabinet, making they rub against the sides when opening or not opening past 90 degrees. I’d say definitely ask someone to assist with the install. And if you make a mistake, use Bondo to fill the holes and try again.
DIY Shaker Cabinet Doors pros and cons
This outdated Billy bookcase got a complete facelift with the shaker doors. The shaker style trim and brass hardware made them look custom and high-end (heart eyes).
What I like about these DIY shaker doors:
- They use a beginner friendly technique. I can make them with a circular saw and a rip-cut guide. Table saw is not a must.
- They look like they’re professionally made after sanding and a fresh coat of paint.
- The wood glue is strong enough to hold the pieces together and would hold up over time.
- Using the same 2″ wide MDF strips, I was able to add the same shaker style detail to the dresser and the open bookcase. The entire built-in looks like a cohesive unit. And there is no extra cost.
On the flip side, there are several drawbacks with this approach:
- It’s time consuming to make these doors. I like how they look, but I don’t want to give you the false impression that the work is easy. From ripping the 4×8 MDF to sanding, to patching, installation, and all the prep work for final finishes, it took HOURS. This is the longest step in the entire DIY desk project, probably took me a week working a few hours every day with the help of my husband. If you’re looking for a more efficient way to make shaker doors, I’d recommend getting a router table or a table saw to do the cuts.
- Doors made of MDF are HEAVY. When I first made the doors the full length (60″ tall), they were massive. I was worried the heavy doors will pull the bookcase right off the wall! It was more manageable after I split up the door into two parts. But still, these doors are not light-weight by any means. If you need doors for heavy use, consider other techniques.
What I would do differently next time
Regardless, these gorgeous new doors are well worth the effort. In the end, I did make it work and was able to overcome these shortcomings. DIY is usually the best option when it comes to cost and flexibility. Plus, you get to learn something new with each challenge.
However, if you don’t have a lot of time to DIY, check out online cabinet makers. I found Fast Cabinet Doors. Their unfinished shaker doors are really affordable (probably half of other woodshops).
I might order from them for future projects, if I still don’t have a table saw by then or want to go the easy route.
Whichever you choose, I hope this tutorial on building cabinet doors is helpful. If you like to learn more about the bedroom makeover I made these shaker doors for, head over to this blog post. I’ve provided all the details, including some swoon-worthy before and after pictures. Have fun building!
Beautiful work! How have the mdf doors held up over the past year? I’m about to jump into a project of my own and would love some insight.
They’ve held up really well! No scratches, warping or visible issues, still look like new. I was worried the doors would be too heavy, but they operate like any other door in our house. If you’re okay with the cons I mentioned in the blog post and don’t mind the time it takes to make these, they’re cheap alternatives to the professionally made shaker doors.
Thanks for the response. I’ve tried making shaker style door the traditional way with table saw/router and both times they weren’t as polished as yours. I’ll definitely be trying this method next. Thank you!