I am always on the hunt for a high quality MCM dresser to make over. When this classic 4-drawer tallboy dresser popped up on Facebook Marketplace (listed for only $25), I knew it would make a nice flip. Much to my surprise (and dismay), this seemingly easy flip turned into a weeklong ordeal and some good lessons on how to artfully cover up stains on wood.
Mid-Century Modern (MCM) furniture’s clean lines, timeless aesthetics, and functional design make it a popular choice among interior design lovers. They look nice in modern homes and have great resale values.
In this post, I will walk you through the steps I took to transform this tired mid-century dresser to a high-end beauty that looks as nice as a $1,799 West Elm piece. Make sure you read all the way till the end to see how this piece of furniture turned out. Along the way, there are a ton of helpful tips and tricks on how to remove stickers, how to remove dark stains, painting a Carrara white marble look, adding epoxy topcoat, and how to quickly restore the finishes of wood veneer.
| Skill Level | Project Cost | Time |
| Beginner | $120 (Citristrip, Oxalic Acid, Epoxy, wood filler and wood conditioner) | One weekend |
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning if you decide to make a purchase via my links, I may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
The easiest way to remove stickers from furniture
First task with this MCM dresser makeover was to remove stickers that were left partially peeled off. I recently learned a cool trick for this (drum roll please) – nail polish remover! It removes the sticky residuals within seconds without scratching the wood finish underneath.
If you have stickers to remove and want to protect the old finish, I highly recommend giving this a try.
Note that though, nail polish remover is made of chemicals and has a strong smell. If this is a concern, try a natural remedy (e.g. vinegar or heat gun) first.
How to remove dark stain from wood
Next step, remove the glaringly visible stain. This vintage piece was in good shape, but the 3″ diameter dark spot was definitely an eyesore. I had just seen an Instagram reel on furniture flipping hacks, so I eagerly tried the method.
First used Citristrip to remove the glossy finish. It oddly did nothing to the dresser top.
OK then, I took out my orbital sander and sanded off the topcoat.
Note: mid-century-modern furniture usually has wood veneer that can be easily damaged with a power sander. Make sure to set the speed to low and use higher grit sandpaper. If your piece has a laminate top, try to be gentle as well. It’s easy to sand through this type of materials, compared to sanding nice solid wood.
After the glossy topcoat was gone, I poured Bar Keeper’s Friend on the raw wood. First time let it sit for 30 minutes. Second time for 2 hours. Surprisingly, nothing happened.
I thought maybe Bar Keeper’s Friend was not strong enough. I bought a bottle of Oxalic Acid online. This is the secret weapon professionals swear by. This has gotta work.
Sadly when I wiped off the paste after a very long time (more than 10 hours), I saw the same spot, not shrinking even a tiny bit.
Painting faux marble
Since nothing I tried to remove the stain worked, I had no choice but to cover up the dark spot. I didn’t want to just paint it a solid color. Inspired by West Elm’s Parker dresser, I decided to paint the dresser top to look like Carrara white marble (fancy, right?).
To prepare for painting, I rolled on two coats of Zinsser shellac-based primer. Then two coats of Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel in Pure White (leftover paint from my IKEA hack built-ins).
Painting faux marble is fun but also kind of intimidating. The most important tip I have for making the marble veining look realistic is to practice painting it on a piece of scrap wood first and experiment with different techniques. It will give you the confidence to try it on the actual piece.
Tips for achieving a beautiful marble look
Here are a few tips for you.
- Find pictures of the real marble that you like and try to copy the pattern.
- Draw a few wiggly lines loosely with a ½” wide paint brush. Twist the brush or apply slight pressure occasionally. This gives the lines different depths and shapes. Immediately use a chalk paint brush to gently dab the lines. Then spray water to spread the wet paint out ever so slightly.
- Drawer a few more wiggly lines with a fine paint brush. Just use the tip of the brush to draw. This adds smaller veins to the pattern and more definition.
- Use a clean cloth to wipe off excess water. Keep blending and blotting until you like the pattern.
- Don’t be afraid to mess up. Have fun and draw random lines. If you don’t like it, you can always wipe off the paint or paint over it.
DIY epoxy marble top
Most DIY marble tutorials used polyurethane to seal the painted marble top. I wanted to finish off with epoxy, so it will have the glossy, shiny finish like real stones. Plus, this seemed easy.
Oh boy, was I wrong.
The first rookie mistake I made was not leveling the workpiece (dresser). Our garage floor is uneven, so the top of the dresser was tilted when I poured the first coat of epoxy on. A lot of the epoxy was wasted flowing down to the floor due to gravity. And the dresser top ended up with a thin side and a thick side.
Another reason I didn’t have an even finish was I didn’t mix enough epoxy. I guesstimate how much I would need and went with my gut feeling. Don’t be like me, use a calculator (like this one) to get the right amount BEFORE starting your project.
For instance, to cover the top of this dresser (34” wide, 18” deep, 1/8” thick), I need around 42oz of epoxy, which translates to 21oz (621.044 ml) of Epoxy resin and 21oz (621.044 ml) of hardener. The product I used requires a 1:1 ratio of the two materials.
After the first pour was dry, the next morning I found a few low spots on the top and the edges with barely any coverage (it all dripped to the plastic cover underneath).
I leveled the dresser with plastic shims and built a dam with painter’s tape (this is another helpful tip I learned). I made a second batch of epoxy, this time doubling the amount, then waited a few hours before I peeled off the tape.
The epoxy saga continues
The next morning, the low spots on the top were fixed. BUT the edges turned out not so good.
There was so much texture. It reminded me of a drip cake.
Mistake #3: waiting too long to peel off the painter’s tape.
The painter’s tape serves as a temporary barrier to keep the epoxy in place while it dries. Taking too long to peel it off means the majority of epoxy had hardened when I removed it. The remaining non-hardened epoxy would drip down, creating an uneven finish.
To make things worse, when I tried to sand off the drips, my orbital sander scratched the paint. In my attempt to remove the chipped spot, I peeled off even more paint. Yikes!
I might as well just sand the whole thing down and start over.
After thinking over it for a night, I decided to try one more time. I did a third epoxy pour, using the last drop of epoxy. This time I peeled off the painter tape after an hour of pouring the epoxy, and kept smoothing over the edges for a good 40 minutes.
It was not perfect. But the edges looked much better.
Tips for creating a perfect epoxy top
- Protect surrounding. Tape everything, under the workpiece, on the floor… You DO NOT want epoxy stick to your workbench, floor or fingers.
- Level the workpiece. Make sure it is not tilted, otherwise the epoxy will flow right out.
- Follow the instructions to a tee. Measure and mix the parts exactly what the manual says. The epoxy can have soft spots if the parts are not in the right ratio or not mixed well.
- Use a heat gun to remove air bubbles.
- Make a temporary dam to help keep the epoxy in place.
- If you want to cover vertical edges with epoxy, peel off the dam after about an hour. The timing is important.
- Smooth over drips right away if you want an even, smooth finish.
- Drips that are dry can be scraped off with a utility knife.
- Set a timer to remind yourself how much time left to spread the epoxy.
I like the epoxy resin kit I got from Amazon. It is easy to use, has a 45-minute of working time, doesn’t yellow, no toxic smell, and comes with all the necessary tools (spatulas, gloves, measuring cups, steer sticks, etc.).
If you want to try this epoxy DIY on a vanity top or kitchen countertops, there are several brands to choose from, Giani Countertop Paint Kit, Total Boat or Stone Coat Countertops. These manufacturers have detailed step-by-step tutorials and even YouTube videos to help guide you. Given how tricky it’s to get the perfect look, I’d use a professional product rather than going a 100% DIY route.
Final step: giving new life to worn-out wood veneer
We’re back to something I’m good at—refreshing wood veneer. Vintage dressers often have minor scratches and blemishes from years of use. My go-to products to quickly restore them are Restore A Finish and Feed N Wax.
Clean the entire dresser inside out. Do a quick sand on the spots with deep gauges.
Grab a super fine steel wool and pour Restore A Finish on top. In the same direction of the wood grain, rub the stain on. You will see the scratches disappear right in front of your eyes.
How satisfying is this?
This wood finish gives the dresser a shiny, rich stain. You can see the comparison in the photo below.
Remove excess with a kitchen towel.
Wait 30 minutes, then grab a clean rag and pour some Feed N Wax on top. This wood conditioner is made of bee wax and has a natural scent. Wipe it on the drawer fronts, legs, and sides of the dresser. It polishes the wood surface and gives it a shiny, rejuvenated feel.
I love using these products on MCM furniture. They leave the piece with a nice scent and can last quite a while (I still have over half left after working on 3 MCM pieces).
MCM Dresser Makeover Reveal
This is the finished piece, a modern look with beautiful wood tone. Isn’t she lovely?
The textures are not visible from a distance. The painted marble top paired with the refreshed walnut body makes a perfect match.
This Mid Century Modern Dresser makeover took quite a few twists and turns. But I enjoy learning new things in the process and glad that I have some good lessons to share with you. This kind of modern makeover is really fun. I hope it inspires you to go to the thrift store or a yard sale, and create your own master piece!
As always, here are some helpful online resources:
- Removing Black Stains In a Vintage Dresser | Furniture Repair & Restoration (my favorite youtube channel on mid-century furniture restoration)
- AVOID THESE 9 EPOXY POUR MISTAKES by Pure Living for Life
- Using Epoxy to Create a Faux Marble Top: Glam Desk Makeover by Pretty Distressed
- Painted Kitchen Counter- Faux Marble by A Beautiful Mess
If you like furniture flip, you may also like these posts on my blog:
Do you any plans on how to build a tv console.
Hi Rupert, I don’t have plans for a console table. Check out Woodshop Diaries, Ana White, or Pine and Poplar’s websites, they have good options.