A Simple DIY Garbage Can Enclosure With Gravel Base

Storing garbage cans has always been a headache for us. It may sound a little wild, but we have four of them—one for trash, two for recycling, and another for yard waste. They take up a ton of space and, in the summer, they get stinky fast and become a breeding ground for the buzziest, peskiest pests.

This past summer, we installed a no-dig vinyl fence that’s big enough to hide all 4 cans. It’s such a hit that the videos I posted on Instagram went viral almost instantly.

This is one of easiest ways to hide garbage cans, AC units, pool equipment or any eyesores without digging post holes or pouring concrete. You don’t need to be a seasoned DIYers to tackle it, no sophisticated power tools needed, takes only a few hours, affordable, and once it’s done, it’s basically maintenance-free. No paint, seal or touch up needed.

In this blog post, I will cover the basic steps for installation, where to buy everything, DIY tips, and things to watch out for. Like always, I want to share all aspects of the project, not just the before and after, so you can decide if this is the right fit for you.

The VIRAL no-dig vinyl fence that everyone was asking about

When I first started researching DIY garbage can enclosures, I came across several ideas.

The first option was a premade outdoor shed—like this one on Amazon for under $200.
The second was a simple fence setup using ground spikes, 4×4 posts, and cedar planks (watch it here).
The third option was a full DIY wood shed with a garden bed on top (watch it here).

All of these could work, but each came with its own drawbacks.

Option	Cons
Premade Outdoor Shed	Need a concrete base to anchor the shed, otherwise it can get blown away
Ground spikes + 4×4 posts	Hard to drive in with rocks in the way, wood planks need re-stain every few years to look nice
Wood shed + garden bed	More involved and takes time to build

Then one day, I stumbled across this cedar privacy screen with metal stakes. It looked incredibly simple, flexible, and exactly what I needed. The white vinyl ones would match perfectly with our white siding.

I ordered it from Overstock.com. With a coupon code, the total came to under $280 for four panels (two sets). Pretty affordable, for a 4-feet tall fence that covers a 4 feet by 12 feet area.

Step One. Prep the Ground and Build a Gravel Base (Optional)

Even though a no-dig fence doesn’t require traditional footings, prepping the ground still makes a huge difference in both appearance and long-term maintenance.

Try to avoid digging when the ground is frozen—it’s basically like trying to dig through rock. It also helps to wait until after a rainfall; softened soil makes removing grass much easier.

Once the area is clear of grass and debris, you can build the base using the material of your choice. Since I was already planning a gravel path in the side yard, it made perfect sense to continue that material into the garbage-can area. One major benefit of gravel, vs. a concrete pad or pavers, is that it doesn’t require meticulous leveling. A no brainer for a slowpoke DIYer like me who just wants the easiest outdoor solution.

To build the base, start by installing landscape edging to frame the space. Then lay down landscape fabric or flattened cardboard boxes, and pour the gravel on top.

Because the gravel naturally follows the yard’s grading, water flows away from the house, keeping the enclosure area dry and mud free.

Step Two. Put Together the Vinyl Fence Panels

Lay out all the parts on the ground first. If you choose fence panels that can be arranged in both an L-shape or a straight line, you can customize the layout to create a larger enclosure. Or you can get a 3-panel set like this one.

For my setup, I created a 4-foot panel on one end, an 8-foot panel running perpendicular to it, and another standalone 4-foot panel to cover the side facing the house.

The horizontal boards slide into the grooves of the posts to form a solid panel. Once everything is aligned, secure the boards to the posts with screws.

You can see the grooves on the sides of the posts.

The horizontal boards fit together like LEGO pieces.

The long section uses two corner posts and one end post. Because my yard slopes quite a bit, I needed to “step” the panels to follow the grade. Instead of assembling the entire 8-foot panel in one go, I secured the end posts first and added the horizontal boards afterward. This gave me the flexibility to adjust the height of each board to match the slope. If you’re not sure what I mean, the next step will make it clear how I did it.

Step Three. Map Out and Hammer In Metal Stakes

Before you drive the metal stakes in ground, map out where you want them to go. This depends on the layout of the storage area: L shape, straight line, U shape.

Temporarily set up the stakes in the corners, just deep enough to keep them upright. Then use strings to check the distance and angle. Make sure the perimeter is straight and square.

Tip: use scrap wood when hammering, so you don’t bend/damage the metal stakes.

If you’re building a long fence like ours, you don’t want to skip this step. Having a fence that does not line up or is crooked not only looks amateur but is also more flimsy.

Mark the center of the posts with spray paint, chalk, or whatever materials you have on hand. Then hammer in the metal stakes one by one, checking if they line up as you go.

Also try to keep the stake plumb and square. A torpedo level is a huge help.

Contemplating how to step down the fence

Last section of panels were installed last, after the adjacent panels were in place to allow for easy adjustment.

Since the stakes are only about 1 feet long, and have a pointy tip, it doesn’t take too long to hammer into the ground. Lift the assembled panels onto the metal stakes. If you’ve done a good job measuring, they should slide right in place. The fence will sway a little bit, if you push it. But the metal stakes are strong enough to keep the whole structure in place.

Step Four. Add Decorative Strips and Top Caps

The last step in this project is to finish off with decorative pieces.

Press down the top strips and caps on top of the post. Then slide the decorative strips into the grooves.

Before & After

Before, the garbage cans and garden tools scattered around, surrounded by patchy grass and mud. It’s so much more organized after adding the fence.

We can easily roll out the garbage bins and tuck things away in this side of the yard more easily.

This simple weekend project instantly increased our house’s curb appeal.

Final Tips & Things to Consider

When I shared this DIY trash enclosure on Instagram, there were many requests for the product link and a few questions.

Can the vinyl fence withstand heavy wind?

From what I can tell, the metal stakes are sturdy enough to support the vinyl panels and should last a long time, even in a windy situation (mine is up to 60 mph of high winds). However, I would not use this type of fence in super windy areas. The metal stakes are buried in ground for about 1 foot, not strong enough to withstand a hurricane, if that’s what you’re dealing with.

Can I use this around the yard for privacy?

Because of the way the posts are supported, this vinyl fence is only 4 feet tall. It’s perfect to hide trash cans, but you’d probably want a fence that is taller to provide more privacy.

Why place the fence so close to the AC unit?

I was roasted about this online. Because of how narrow the side yard was, I intentionally placed the fence closer to the house, trying to leave more space for the walkway. The manufacturer manual says to allow for at least 6 inches of clearance on the sides. The left and right of the AC condenser are clear. The fence is in the front, which is less important in terms of air flow. If you’re concerned, use louvered panels, the ones with small gaps between each panel. That way, air can flow through freely.

This is plastic junk, why not use wood?

Compared to wood, vinyl fence is not only easier to install, but also easier to maintain. Vinyl doesn’t rot, rust, or need paint—just rinse occasionally with a hose to refreshen up. I’ve built my own outdoor furniture and planter; they would turn gray overtime and break down more easily. I like that this option gives me peace of mind. One last thing to worry about.

Can you add a door or gate to the fence?

My original plan was to close the garbage can enclosure area with a gate. This requires a solid post to anchor to and can sustain the forces of opening/closing hundreds of times. There were not readily available options on the market. I’d either need to pour concrete to set the post or buy a premade one for way more money than I was willing to spend. So I decided to keep an opening in the center for accessing the trash cans.

I hope this answers all the questions you may have about installing a vinyl privacy fence for outdoor garbage. If you want to learn more about how we made over our outdoor spaces, I have a few other blog posts that you can check out:

DIY Yard Drainage: An Easy Solution for Sump Pump Water

How to Build a DIY Backyard Playhouse for Kids

DIY Deck Part 1: Planning, Framing and Installing Deck Board

Posted By: Sherry · In: Home Renovation